An insider's guide to the best cheesesteaks in Philadelphia
Jim Pappas of the Philadelphia Cheesesteak Challenge shares his top spots in town for the world-famous sandwich, from the original Pat's King of Steaks to locals-only Café Carmela.
Known primarily as the birthplace of America (and the home of famed fictional boxer Rocky Balboa), Philadelphia offers many other reasons to visit, like its thriving arts and culture scene or its world-class parks. But in the City of Brotherly Love, the only way to satiate hunger cravings is with a world-famous Philadelphia cheesesteak sandwich: thinly sliced beefsteak, melted cheese and stir-fried onions stuffed in a long hoagie roll.
Philadelphia folklore dictates that local restauranteur Pat Olivieri created the steak-and-onion sandwich at his hot dog cart near Philadelphia's Italian Market in 1930. Olivieri soon opened up a restaurant called Pat's King of Steaks, and a decade later, manager Joe Lorenza allegedly added provolone cheese.
Whatever its origin, there are now thousands of locations in and around the city that proudly serve Philadelphia cheesesteaks. We spoke to Jim Pappas – the stomach behind the Philadelphia Cheesesteak Adventure – to get his insider take on where to eat this iconic sandwich.
Jim Pappas launched the Philadelphia Cheesesteak Adventure in 2018. Over the last six years he has visited over 1,100 locations and eaten 1,100 different cheesesteaks, breaking down his results in a detailed spreadsheet.
"People don't realise that cheesesteaks can be so different," says Pappas, who first fell in love with the cheesy hoagie after eating at the Claymont Steak Shop while growing up in the state of Delaware. "You have the touristy place, the local place and then there's the place from a kid who grew up on cheesesteaks then went to culinary school and is making a fancier version. It's been a lot of fun exploring that."
When it comes to what makes an authentic Philadelphia cheesesteak, Pappas says that, originally, sirloin (rump steak) meat was used but that in recent years Ribeye has become the most popular. Within city limits, Cheez Whiz processed cheese topping reigned supreme because it was easily spreadable, but American cheese was preferred out in the suburbs. Now, says Pappas, most places use Cooper sharp cheddar cheese.
The key component, though, is that the cheesesteak simply tastes good. Here are Pappas's favourite cheesesteaks in his hometown of Philadelphia.
1. Best classic Philly cheesesteak experience: Pat's King of Steaks and Geno's Steaks
It might seem like a cliché, but Pappas isn't above sending visitors to either Pat's King Of Steaks or Geno's Steaks. Located directly opposite each other, their proximity and rivalry has only increased their popularity. "Geno's is famous because they opened up across the street from Pat's," says Pappas. "They're much more friendly and upbeat about their rivalry. But their cheesesteaks are similar. Very traditional."
Tip:
According to Pappas and other "cheesesteak traditionalists", one of the unwritten ordering rules is that mayonnaise shouldn't be anywhere near a cheesesteak. However, Pappas will admit that he has occasionally broken this law, and the result has been "amazing". His ordering technique is to always tell the server, "Make it the way you normally do."
"It's the traditional cheesesteak experience," says Pappas. "You stand on the corner, order it through a window, take your selfie and go home. They're labelled the tourist places [but] I went to Pat's a few months ago with low expectations and was pleasantly surprised."
Pappas also recommends Steve's Prince Of Steaks, which has four locations across the city, as they mix different cheeses, like American and provolone, together. "It melts in, rolls off the meat, and gets in the rolls," says Pappas. He also likes Tony and Nick's Steaks, a hole-in-the-wall spot in south-east Philadelphia, as their rolls are crispier and make the sandwich feel fresher.
2. Best newcomer: Angelo's Pizzeria
Opened in January 2019, Angelo's Pizzeria has already started to garner plenty of attention; its lines now rival those of the city's more established cheesesteak restaurants.
Angelo's Pizzeria is located just down the block from Sarcone's Bakery, a fifth-generation Italian bakery in the city, where Angelo's owner Danny DiGiampietro worked as a teen before marrying the owner's daughter and becoming himself a "very good baker", says Pappas. At Angelo's, they make their own roll, which is just "much better" according to Pappas, and while they make a traditional cheesesteak, the meat they use is of higher quality, too.
"Everyone raves about them," says Pappas. "People wait 40 minutes on a Saturday, standing on the street, for a sandwich." The eatery already has one huge celebrity fan, too: "[The owner] opened a food truck with Bradley Cooper in New York City for the release of Maestro."
3. Best locals-only spot: Café Carmela
Those looking to enjoy a more local flavour and experience should consider heading to eateries slightly outside city limits, like Café Carmela, a 20-minute drive to the north-east of the city.
"It has a nice cut of meat," says Pappas. "They slice it a bit thicker there and they use a nicer, seedier roll. It's just a nice elevation on the traditional cheesesteak." Just two miles east of Café Carmela, Dagwood's Pub is another neighbourhood stalwart with a 30-year history of cheesesteak making and a chef that Pappas says is "always cooking something new", from lobster and chips to seafood rigatoni and Nashville chicken and hot honey calamari.
More centrally located to Philadelphia's city centre is Cook and Shaker, a "little neighbourhood corner bar" in the Olde Richmond neighbourhood that has a sandwich and beer special. "It's traditional, but the owner grew up on cheesesteaks and got a culinary degree," says Pappas. "It has banana peppers, a special sauce."
And in Philadelphia's Center City, try McGillin's Olde Ale House; opened in 1860, the oldest continuously operating tavern in Philadelphia and a popular spot for engagement proposals. "The bar, the old signs, the history and the whole environment is nice," says Pappas, who credits the sandwich for having a very tasty roll and blending the meat, cheese and onions perfectly.
4. Best under-rated: Callahan's Grille and Woodrow's Sandwich Shop
With so many cheesesteaks to choose from (and so many out-of-towners flocking to Pat's and Geno's), some establishments haven't quite had the attention that Pappas think they deserve. One in particular is Callahan's Grille, in South Philadelphia, located under the South Street Bridge. "The bar is usually full of young people who have just played volleyball or kickball or soccer. It's a fun, young, corner dive bar," says Pappas. While the seeded roll is dense, it acts as the ideal holder for the delightfully congealed and perfectly satisfying mass of evenly ratio-ed meat, cheese, onion.
Woodrow's Sandwich Shop, on the other end of South Street, also "doesn't get talked about enough because they're doing different things with the cheesesteak", says Pappas. This includes using shaved ribeye and Cheez Whiz mixed with truffles that's made fresh every day, and cherry pepper mayonnaise. "They take their time to make each cheesesteak."
5. Best different take on a cheesesteak: Gilben's Bakery
At Gilben's Bakery, located in Germantown, North Philadelphia, two Louisiana bakers have put their own unique twist on the cheesesteak for a distinct taste.
"They make a garlic bread roll – it's like the ones they use for lobster rolls," says Pappas. "You have to be in the mood and eat it quickly, but it's flavourful, the meat is chopped up real fine, and it's a bit spicy."
Pappas also highlights the aforementioned Woodrow's Sandwich shop's truffle cheesesteak, Steve Stein's Famous Deli's pastrami version and the Northeast Sandwich Company's duck incarnation for people who want their cheesesteaks in a new and unique way.
6. Best splurge: Barclay's Prime
Those looking to truly indulge will appreciate Barclay Prime's $140 (£110.50) cheesesteak. Owner Stephen Starr is a Philadelphia native who has handpicked some of the finest and most decadent ingredients on offer to create the ultimate high-end take on his city's most famous (and usually $10 [£7.80]) dish. This includes hand-cut wagyu, black truffle, foie gras, fried onions and Cooper sharp cheddar cheese – all of which is served on a freshly baked sesame roll.
"It's a high-end steakhouse in Philadelphia," says Pappas. "They make their own roll, their cheese is made up of three cheeses and it comes cut in thirds. It's so decadent and rich. The meat just melts. It's just super high-end and takes it to another level." There's more: the sandwich comes with half a bottle of champagne to help wash it down.
7. Best outside of Philadelphia: Delco Steaks and Cockadoodle Dan's Wings & Steaks
Visitors hankering for just one last cheesesteak on their way out of Philadelphia should make a stop at Delco Steaks, a chain with locations to the west and south of the city. "Everything is [locally] sourced and very community based there," says Pappas. "The meat is great. They made me a perfect cheesesteak a couple of years back."
Meanwhile, to the east and north of Philadelphia, Cockadoodle Dan's Wings & Steaks – known primarily for its chicken wings – makes a Pappas-approved sandwich called the Batman and Robin that combines shredded chicken, sirloin steak and cooper sharp cheese, mixed with a secret sauce.
After endless debates with other devourers and experts over the true home of the best Philadelphia cheesesteaks, Pappas knows only too well just how strong a role emotion plays in their decisions.
"For some people, their favourite cheesesteak is embedded in their favourite memories," says Pappas. "Nine times out of 10, their favourite places are the first place they had one. People aren't just passionate about cheesesteaks; they're emotionally connected to them. That's what food can do."
-bbc