The Princess of Wales to Gigi Hadid: How ultra-traditional tweed found a new fanbase

Do you have an item of clothing in your wardrobe that is 40 years old? And if you do, is it still good enough – in terms of both style and quality – to wear today? For King Charles, the answer is a resounding "yes". The monarch has been wearing the same double-breasted coat since the 1980s. The reason for its longevity? It's made of tweed.

A tightly woven woollen fabric, traditionally in plain twill, herringbone or houndstooth patterns, tweed is a winter favourite for its natural insulation. And tweed is everywhere this season, from luxury labels such as Chloe and Margaret Howell, to high-street brands like Marks & Spencer.

But King Charles's preference for tweed is more likely a result of its timeless and sustainable credentials. Since 2008, he has been a patron and founder of The Campaign For Wool, a global initiative run by a coalition of industry groups to support and grow the wool industry in response to the rise of synthetic fibres. Much of the work focuses on engaging consumers through fashion and interiors.

"Tweed is a 100% natural, renewable and biodegradable fabric, minimising the environmental impact of manufacturing," says Martin Crawford, consultant at Anderson & Sheppard, the Savile Row tailor behind King Charles's double-breasted tweed coat. "All tweed manufacturers adhere to strict guidelines, and very much promote their green credentials."

Crawford describes tweed as "the first cottage industry" and attributes its longevity and popularity to the way it has adapted over the past 200 years. Originating in Scotland and Ireland, tweed began as a practical and functional fabric to keep out the cold, and then evolved to become synonymous with British aristocracy and country life, when shooting and hacking jackets were adopted by the upper classes in the 19th Century. Luxury fashion labels were responsible for its contemporary revival, led by Chanel in the 1950s. The label's iconic tweed jacket remains one of fashion's most covetable – and copied – items today. 

Later, in 1976, British designer Vivienne Westwood first worked with Harris Tweed Hebrides – on the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland – to create a pair of bondage trousers. A decade later, she created the autumn/winter 1987 Harris Tweed collection. The two brands have collaborated ever since. In November 2023, Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri visited the Harris Tweed mill to create a line of bespoke fabrics, which became a key part of the Cruise 2025 collection, shown at Drummond Castle in June. The collection was inspired by Mary Queen of Scots and brought artisans from across the Scottish textiles industry together to showcase local craftsmanship.

"Over the past 15 years our industry has experienced a surge of interest, particularly the traditional designs and patterns," Ruth Masson, sales and marketing manager at Harris Tweed Hebrides, tells the BBC. "From luxury to the high street, consumers seem to be much more engaged with the story around the products they are buying. Our artisanal fabric and its unique production process has allowed us to align with an array of brands, reaching a wider demographic of customers."

That reach can sometimes be unexpected. In April, the annual Tweed Run cycling event took place in London, with riders embarking on a 13.5-mile route around the capital, clad in their finest Fair Isle knitwear, tweed suits and bow ties. Now a global event, cyclists duly stop to take tea en route. 

The name "Harris Tweed" is protected by legislation, under The Harris Tweed Act of 1993, and only fabric produced in the Outer Hebrides, by hand, can bear the famous Orb label. It is handwoven using 100% British farmed wool, and processed in the UK. Masson advises consumers to first look at fabric composition when buying a garment that labels itself as "tweed".

"Not all tweed is created equal," she says. "There are significant differences in the quality, fibre sourcing and production processes that can impact its sustainability. Ultimately, brands committed to sustainability offer certification, provide transparency into their production processes, and use natural, renewable materials. Some tweeds may incorporate cheaper synthetic fibres that do not have the same environmental benefits." 

There is something else that makes tweed a more sustainable fabric than most: durability. The tighter it is woven, the more durable it becomes, says Rebecca Earley, professor of circular design futures at University of the Arts, London. "If you do get moth holes or any damage, it's easy to make a darn repair, and the pattern helps to disguise wear-and-tear. And because wool is naturally antibacterial, you can air your tweed garment outside. In fact, if you do dry clean tweed it loses some of its body so avoid it – it is generally self-cleaning."

Many tweed garments are lined, Earley explains, giving them structure, which adds to the durability, while protecting your skin against the sometimes prickly texture. "Tweed is a fabric that comes from the land, and the natural dye palettes often reflect the regions and landscapes from which it comes. I can always spot an Irish tweed," she says, having spent her summers for the past 20 years in Kerry, Ireland.

Much like Harris tweed, Donegal tweed – from County Donegal in north-west Ireland – has been manufactured for centuries. While both Irish and Scottish tweeds share an almost identical weight of 15/16oz, the main differences between them, says Crawford, are that Donegal is machine-woven, and its random flecks of colour are its distinctive trademark.

"One of my favourite garments is an Alice Temperley tweed suit, which I've had for years," says Earley. "It's just a shame that it doesn't fit me anymore. But I'm hanging on to it because it will resell – tweed is timeless and beyond trends."

Earley is right. At fashion rental platform Hurr, there has been a 110% increase on the number of tweed items being rented since September. "We have definitely seen an uplift in searches for tweed recently, as well as more textured materials that reflect the preppy countryside trend of now," says Sophie Devlin, fashion director at Hurr. "The influx has focused on red, as well as more classic tonal black and white, with tweed pieces from Nadine Merabi and Montsand having been a big hit for partywear." 

Tweed's sustainable attributes mean that it is favoured by modern fashion brands that factor in environmental, social and ethical implications in their collections. London-based brand Baukjen, which is certified B Corp, says its tweed category has grown by 40% compared to last year's autumn/winter 2023 collection, with a brown check tweed coat one of the season's best sellers.

"With its durability and timeless appeal, tweed aligns with consumer demands for stylish, investment pieces," says Baukjen design director Natalie Grant. The Baukjen coat may not appeal to purists – it is made from a blend of recycled wool, cotton and polyester – but it demonstrates that the fabric's reinvention is still going strong after 200 years.

Anderson & Sheppard still make "shooting suits" in heavier tweeds, but demand now comes for lighter tweeds, such as Shetland, at 12/13oz, which can be worn all year round in the UK, with the exception of summer. "These weights of cloth are super popular as [the jackets] can be worn with regular flannel trousers for a timeless look," says Crawford. "But they are much more likely to be worn on a weekend with chinos or jeans." 

Perhaps the best barometer of the direction in which tweed is heading is its celebrity following. King Charles is not the only royal to favour tweed; the Princess of Wales is a fan of Harris Tweed – and also has a favourite cobalt blue '90s Chanel tweed jacket that she regularly re-wears – together with Gwyneth Paltrow and Madonna. More recently, US model Gigi Hadid has become a fan of the Scottish weave. A sign perhaps that tweed has now truly transcended both national borders and generations.

-BBC